Saturday, June 5, 2010

Shalom Shabbat!


Yesterday we had a heavy day of talks, and I was very tired due to a sleepless night the night before (I mentioned the arabic coffee...say no more). So I used the day as a bit of a rest, had a sleep in the afternoon and generally just chilled out, which was easier as the temperature had dropped and it was sunny but not hot. At about 5pm we went as a group to the Western wall, to view it pre-Shabbat (Sabbath), which started at sundown, about 7pm. There were lots of people there, and armed with our knowledge of wall-etiquette, we approached the wall this time and had a moment of prayer. It is very moving, particularly when you see the millions of little prayers and petitions on slips of paper that people post into the cracks of the stones. Everyone around is focused on prayer, so it is important not to be too overtly 'touristy'. The variety of people is still ovewhelming, from orthodox Jewish to obviously American Jewish, however at the Wall it is certainly a place of coming together, rather than focusing on division.

After dinner we decided to go back to the Wall, to see what Shabbat was like. Immediately the difference was obvious, and we noticed it as soon as we turned from the Via Dolorosa into the adjoining street, which leads to the Western Wall plaza (about 6 minutes walk at a brisk pace) There were hundreds (probably thousands) of people in all kinds of Jewish dress, walking as family groups and groups of young men and women, all dressed up, coming towards us. Imagine the crowds leaving the MCG or other venue after a game, and you get the idea. When we reached the plaza , which is accessible via a security check point, it was like Moomba. Thousands of people everywhere, and the plaza, although the crowd was obviously thinning, was still packed. The women's section was emptier than the mens, but there were still crowds of people, families, friends, soldiers, all gathering for a chat and in some cases a sing. The men's area was the most incredible to watch. Men with black hats, furry hats, tall hats, or yarmulkah (skull caps) all milling around together, some standing at the wall praying, others dancing in long conga-line type formation, others gathered around tables specially prepared (with velvet embroidered cloths )for the occasion and studying in groups. The men were wearing the clothing which generally indicates their area of origin ie Russian, Lithuanian, Ethiopian etc. I don't know what each means, but I am starting to recognise the differences.

We met an interesting Orthodox Jew from Pennsylvania; he lectures at the university there and had brought a group of students. He explained to us about the furry hats, and the earlocks which some orthodox jews wear (the Hasidim) and why they had originally developed as a response of Polish peasants to the oppression of their Jewish community by the Czar. they decided their best 'comeback' was to be as obviously jewish as possible, hence the distinct earlocks etc. It was fascinating. Their furry hats they made out of the backside of beavers (? or some animal...) in imitation of the Czar's own hat....as an act of rebellion to the Czar himself. Cheeky hey?! The whole plaza had an air of celebration, even the soldiers looked relaxed and were dancing, complete with machine guns slung over their shoulders. We were wished 'Shalom Shabbat' and decided we'd come back next Shabbat. Truly an experience of a lifetime. Will try to find an image to show you something of what i am describing....Did I mention the soldier carrying the blue balloon?....
Shalom Shabbat!

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